Monday, May 25, 2009

Fo Oh? Fo Sho!

I caught a sesh with Sal, Sal's family and Brandon this morning. It was pretty much just us out in the line-up when I first got there. I was a little surprised that it was just us because a holiday weekend + a rumored swell = water zoo (wouldn't that be an aquarium?). I sure wasn't complaining about the absence of a crowd, though. I got my share of waves, and decided to call it a day around mid-morning, which is when the masses started to show up.

As an old...uh... mature bodyboarder, I enjoy good vibes in the water almost as much as I enjoy actually surfing. That said, I got to talk story (as they say in Hawaii) with one of Sal's brothers during today's sesh. He lived on the same island that I'm from and he had surfed a lot of the same breaks that I used to surf. Recalling those breaks took me down the proverbial memory lane. Now one thing's for sure: I can't wait to go home to Hawaii and hit up those spots like I did back in the day., here I come!

I got wax on my camera's lens, so some of the photos are a bit blurry.

That's what I'm talking about!

The side-view of an A-framer

1 comment:

Nick Borgens said...

Darn..............i wish i was out there with you guys but home break wasn't so bad after all it was pushing 4 foot at pier i was stoked!!! nice pics bro!!!