Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Da Beach Run

One of the things that I miss the most about my hometown is the beach run. There's really nothing like cruising down the beach, in Hawaii, on a road so close to the beach that you could throw a rock from your car with little effort and literally hit the ocean.

One of my favorite things of my hometown beach run is the surf check. Unfortunately, there wasn't any swell hitting any of the beach run spots, but I decided to post some pics of them anyway just for the heck of it.

I don't normally name-drop, but I thought this post would be more interesting if I provided the names of the various spots that I checked. Of course, I took the consequences (i.e. non-locals crowding these spots) into account first, but I really don't feel there's an issue. With these spots, it basically comes down to: if you know, you know, and if you don't, you don't.

Edit: So the one time that I decide to name-drop, another local from my relatively small hometown sees my blog and calls me out on it. Dang, what are the odds! LOL. Anyway, out of respect for a fellow local, the names and captions that I initially posted have been deleted and replaced with...captions in Pidgen!

Junk dis spot. Moa betta you no go.

Dis spot moa junk. Moa betta you no go.

Choke, da kine, puhi at dis spot. Moa betta you no go.

Da watah at dis spot is moa cold den da watah in Alaska. Moa betta you no go.

Da locals goin' pound you out at dis spot. Moa betta you no go.

Dis spot get choke vana, and if you step on one, one 'nawdah guy goin' have to make she-she on your foot. Moa betta you no go.

Da Manapua Man no stop at dis spot. Moa betta you no go.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Stayed at Home

I was hoping to hook up with a couple of my cousins for a sesh, but they ended up going south in search of better surf. I considered going with them, but I ultimately opted for my home break. Surf was small, but the water felt amazing.

Yesterday, I posted a pic from the top; here's a pic from below.

Another pic from below, but from the back of a wave.

I love how you can see the bottom through the water.

Friday, September 23, 2011

My Home Break

I took a quick drive to my home break this morning. The waves weren't that good, but it was nice to see my home break after not surfing there for over two years.

The view of my home break from up top.

The Point wasn't working today, but when it does...

Even if the waves aren't good, you can still enjoy the scenery.

Hawaii fact #2073: Anything in reggae colors will sell in Hawaii, including fins.

Now you know why they call a certain spot of my home break Rock Bottoms

I had one of my best summer seasons at this part of my home break back when I was a grom.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

BIA 2011 Championships

Not even rain, thunder, lightning and hail could stop Nick at yesterday's BIA contest. Congrats, Nick!

I checked out the BIA 2011 championships yesterday. Even though I knew beforehand that the waves were going to be "meh" and the lighting conditions were going to be "ugh", I decided to go if nothing more than to support Nick. I wasn't the only one with that mindset - the MB contingent was in the house on the beach to support Nick. It brought a smile to my face to hear a hoot, holler, cheer or whistle each time Nick caught a wave.

Here are a few pics from yesterday. I've posted additional pics on my FB profile.

Some of the MB contingent

Monday, September 5, 2011

Labor Day 2011

Happy Labor Day!

It felt like forever since I last shot from the water - timing was a bit off on this one.

A foamy foamball

Saturday, September 3, 2011

A Popular Spot

I often like to check out a spot that gets popular with both surfers and spectators alike when big souths come through. A big south came through, so...

Party time!

Cali bodyboarding legend Brian Wise:

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Swell Check

With all the hype surrounding the south swell that's currently hitting Socal, I had to check it out for myself this afternoon. The winds and very low tide made for less than ideal conditions, but this swell is definitely packing a punch.

I spent more time than I should have looking for mysto spots that tend to come alive during a swell of this nature, so I only had a small window in which to take pictures before the sun set. Here's one of the few pics I got in said window:

Here's to more pics of this swell before it fades!