Thursday, March 12, 2009

Old Stomping Grounds

I came across a few pictures (be sure to check out the pics on page two, too) of my old stomping grounds in Hawaii. These pictures bring back a lot of memories. When the waves get like that, there's usually an eerie feeling in the air. You see, when waves get like that, that usually means there's a storm brewing nearby. Imagine surfing big waves, under ominous dark clouds in cold river-runoff water, all the while battling a gnarly current. Pretty heavy stuff.

I could sure use some of those waves now. Then again, maybe not. I'm so out of shape, it's not even funny (I start huffing and puffing just trying to paddle through one foot mush at my local spot). And even if I did make it out to the line-up unscathed, I'd probably be too uncoordinated to actually take advantage of the size and power of these waves. After all, 60 extra pounds and an 11-year hiatus from bodyboarding has had the uncanny ability to turn my 360s into 180s and make my rollos look like unorthodox floaters.

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